B5757 Design Changes

The last time I took a minute to sew I picked this skirt pattern, Butterick 5757.  The drawing 

looks cute, but even in the smallest sizes this skirt would have problems. The waistband casing is the same size as the full width of the skirt which of course is meant to be gathered. The extra fabric is non-cooperative and just bunches unevenly around the waist elastic. I liked the fullness of the skirt because I picked a fabric that has an amazing drape and swing but to be able to wear this one, I had to make some design changes. 

Ripping out the waistband seams

I removed the waistband casing. It was too big, with the elastic in it it just bunched and did not maintain even gathers. The elastic also stretched out too much so that the waistband was too loose. I did not make it easier for myself as I had already serged the seam so it took some time and patience with the seam ripper.  

New pocket cut, and set beside left side seam so I knew how much to open the side seam for the pocket.

I needed a way to open the skirt for a regular waistband. The only seams were on the side. The original pattern design had inseam side pockets which I had omitted because I did not want any extra fullness around the waist or hip. After removing the waistband, I opened the left side seam enough to include an inseam side pocket. 

Thread tails on the inside pockets show serged area of pocket.

I needed to alter the pocket so that I could easily get into and out of the skirt. To do this I did not sew the inside seam of the pocket, so that the skirt would open wider at the waist to allow easier entry and exit. I attached the pocket to each side, serged about 6 inches down on inside pocket seam to finish the fabric and prevent fraying.

The red topped pins show the bottom of the pocket and where to start/stop sewing.

Then I stitched the bottom of the pocket together. the new pocket seam at the side seams, stitched the pocket seam to the inside of the pocket on each side and serged the bottom of the pocket. With all of these changes I can gather the fullness evenly and add a more fitted waistband to the skirt. Or, maybe something else. 

I have not yet decided if I will add a traditional waistband or if I will make this more like a dress. I am considering adding a flesh tone lightweight slip like bodice and sewing the skirt to that. With a little elastic at the waist to make it more comfortable, like a dress but with the fit and style of a skirt. I would be able to wear a top over it and not worry about the waistband rolling. Once I have made the bodice to fit, I can add the skirt.  It will have to open under the left arm so I have more design work ahead.  If I had not been thinking about doing this modification, I could have just added a zipper instead of a pocket at the side seam.